FOOD REVIEW: The Fox and Goose, Wigley

Roasted partridge at the Fox and Goose, Wigley
Roasted partridge at the Fox and Goose, Wigley

Sitting on top of the fantastically-named Puddling Pie Hill, the Fox and Goose in Wigley offers sweeping views over the Derbyshire countryside.

Fortunately, on our visit to the pub on a cold December lunchtime, the dishes produced from the kitchen looked every bit as good as the fabulous surroundings.

Homemade bread and dips.

Homemade bread and dips.

To start, we opted for the homemade bread and dips which included a variety of breads and grissini, olive 0il and balsamic vinegar,

flavoured butters, red pepper hummus and roast garlic aioli (£3.95, adding in the optional olives for an additional £1). The breads were deliciously salty and the dips proved surprisingly moreish - the prettily-presented slate platter was soon wiped clean.

On the chef’s specials board, something suitably festive caught my eye.

It was the game of the week – whole roasted partridge with sage mash, sauteed bacon, sprouts, chestnuts and red wine jus (£15.95). Sounding good enough to grace any Dickensian Christmas table, it was a very modern take on winter classic.

Buffalo burger

Buffalo burger

For those who find chicken bland but pigeon a little too gamey, partridge is the ideal compromise.

Small birds can be easily over-cooked, producing meat that’s tough and dry; at the Fox and Goose it was roasted to perfection - flavour-some and moist.

The bacon added a smoky, earthy, note while the chestnuts were a lovely festive touch.

Across the table, the water buffalo burger was also going down well. Made with a 6oz buffalo burger, beef tomato,little gem, – gherkins, smoked onion mayonnaise and smoked bacon on seeded brioche (£12.95), it came with chunky chips that were close to perfection - soft and fluffy on the inside, crisp and crunchy outside.

There was just about enough room left for the pub’s signature dessert, the pudding pie – the Fox and Goose take on a Bakewell pudding, served with custard (£7). There was a slight delay with it arriving, explained because it was made to order - and well worth the wait: perfect pastry and a sweet, comforting filling. The ideal end to a lovely lunch.

RATING 8/10

To book call 01246 566335 or visit www.thefoxandgooseinn.com